Murakami Kaizoku Museum

Today the word "pirate" suggests looting and violence, but the Murakami Kaizoku (Murakami navy) of the medieval Seto Inland Sea were something different. They had advanced seafaring skills and information networks, knew the Inland Sea's complex routes and currents in detail, and worked as sea "professionals": collecting tolls, piloting ships, escorting vessels and fighting at sea in wartime.

The Murakami Kaizoku Museum in Miyakubo, Oshima, opened in 2016 to tell their story. It stands on the coast facing Noshima, so the exhibits inside connect with the view out the window.

The exhibits are arranged to show the Murakami pirates from several angles.

History of the Murakami Kaizoku

Timelines, old documents and maps explain how the three houses of Innoshima, Noshima and Kurushima formed, peaked and declined. You can understand their ties with Oda Nobunaga and the Mori clan, and the navy's place in the political history of the Inland Sea.

Ships and seamanship

Models of the ships they used (sekibune, kobaya and others) are shown along with current and route charts of the Inland Sea. You can see how medieval sailors read the region's complex geography and tides.

Weapons and equipment

Weapons, armor and gear specialized for sea battles are on display, with explanations of how fighting on the water differed from fighting on land.

Noshima Castle ruins

From the museum windows you can see Noshima (now uninhabited). It was the home base of the Noshima Murakami and is known as a "sea castle": the whole island worked as a fortress. The exhibits introduce its structure and this pirate-style use of an island as a castle.

One of the most unusual experiences here is a kayak tour around Noshima. It runs regularly in connection with the museum. You paddle the Inland Sea's strong currents and see the remains of Noshima's stone walls and its terrain up close.

The waters around Noshima are known for fast currents, and paddling them gives you a sense of how tough the sea the navy controlled really was. Capacity is limited, tours run on set days and may be canceled due to weather, so book and confirm in advance.

Ryo Wada's historical novel Murakami Kaizoku no Musume (The Pirate's Daughter), published in 2013, is a Sengoku-period story set among the Noshima Murakami, with the navy daughter Kyo as its heroine. It won the Japan Booksellers' Award.

The museum looks out on Noshima, the novel's setting, and many fans visit it as a pilgrimage. It also has exhibits and goods related to the novel, making it an entry point for people who became interested in the Murakami navy through the book. To learn about the Innoshima branch, visit Innoshima Suigun Castle.

Besides the museum, Oshima has Mt. Kiro Observatory Park, Yoshiumi Ikiiki-kan and other sights. A standard route is to enter Oshima from the Imabari side (over the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge), visit the Murakami Kaizoku Museum in the Miyakubo area, then Yoshiumi Ikiiki-kan, take in the view from Mt. Kiro, and cross the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge back to Imabari.

The museum is closed on Mondays, so check before passing through Oshima on a Monday ride. Admission is reasonable for how much there is to see. Advance booking is required for the Noshima kayak tour. See the Shimanami Kaido cycling guide for the full route.