Mt. Shirataki

Travel around the Shimanami islands and you notice each island has its own scenery, culture and history. Mt. Shirataki on Innoshima stands out even among them. Countless stone Buddhas stand quietly on the rocks near the summit, a contrast to the calm scenery of the Seto Inland Sea that feels almost like another world.

Mt. Shirataki is a 226.9 m peak in central Innoshima, and the view of the islands from the top is one of the best on the Shimanami Kaido. But what overwhelms most visitors first is not the view. It is the stone Buddhas placed everywhere: on rocks, beside the trail and around the summit lookout.

The stone Buddhas of Mt. Shirataki were made at the end of the Edo period (early 19th century). Kashiwabara Denroku, a benefactor from Shigei village on Innoshima, began the project, and local people helped build it. More than 700 stone figures in total, including Kannon statues, 500 arhats, Jizo and rock-carved Buddhas, are clustered near the summit, and local people still look after and worship them.

The 500 arhats represent disciples of the Buddha, and each has a different face, pose and expression. On Mt. Shirataki they are placed in gaps between rocks, at the roots of trees and beside stone steps, so a new figure appears with every few steps.

Years of wind and rain have covered the statues with moss, and many have merged with the rock. It feels nothing like a built tourist attraction; you can sense the time that has passed.

Climb past the stone Buddhas to the top and an unobstructed 360° view opens up.

Below are Innoshima's farmland and villages. Around you are Mukaishima, Ikuchijima, Omishima and the other Shimanami islands, with the mountains of Honshu and Shikoku in the distance. On a clear day you see the classic view of islands floating on a calm sea. The sudden change from the world of stone Buddhas to this open view is what makes Mt. Shirataki special.

In spring the trees bud, and in autumn the leaves change color, so the pairing of statues and scenery shifts with the seasons.

There are several routes up, but the usual one starts from the Shigei side. It takes about 30–40 minutes on foot from the trailhead to the summit, closer to a hike than a mountain climb.

Some sections have steep stone steps and rocky ground, so wear at least sneakers. This is a simple mountain path, not a developed tourist site, so watch out for slippery spots.

A road reaches close to the summit, so if you come by car you can gain most of the height before walking.

Mt. Shirataki is off the main Shimanami cycling route, but it is worth making time for when you are on Innoshima. A standard plan is to enter Innoshima over the Innoshima Bridge, loop around the island, stop at Mt. Shirataki and combine it with Innoshima Suigun Castle.

Riding on Innoshima involves a lot of hills and takes some energy. In return, fewer people come here, and you can have the quiet scenery and history almost to yourself. See the Innoshima cycling guide for the island route.

Mt. Shirataki is a place of local worship, not a tourist facility. Do not touch the stone Buddhas, and visit quietly and respectfully. There are no vending machines or shops near the summit, so bring drinks with you.

On cloudy or foggy days the statues take on an even more striking atmosphere, but the ground gets slippery, so always check the weather.