Hodoji Temple

Hodoji is a temple of the Jodo Seizan Zenrinji school halfway up Mt. Senkoji in Higashi-tsuchido-cho, Onomichi. Its principal image is Amida Buddha. The grounds are built along steep terrain and merge with Onomichi's stone steps, paved lanes and alleys, giving it an especially Onomichi feel among the temples on the Temple Walk.

It is smaller than nearby Senkoji, Komyoji and Jikoji, but it has a charm of its own: a maneki-neko (beckoning cat) workshop in its grounds. A craft workshop inside a historic temple is a small surprise for visitors.

In the grounds of Hodoji is a maneki-neko workshop that makes and sells cat figurines and goods. Handmade beckoning cats and cat-themed pieces line the shelves, each one made by hand.

This is not a show put on for tourists. It is a real place where people make things. Being able to visit a temple and look into a craftsperson's workshop at the same time is something only Hodoji offers among Onomichi's temples.

Cat lovers and anyone who likes handmade goods will find plenty to look at, and it gives you a reason to explore the grounds properly. Onomichi is also known as a cat town, with cats living all over the city, and the workshop fits that image well. Nearby Cat Alley is another must for cat fans.

Hodoji is said to have been founded by Yukai Ikan around the Jowa era (1345–1349). Its principal image is Amida Buddha. Its name already appears in a record from 1489, confirming it existed in Onomichi in the Muromachi period.

It belongs to the same Jodo Seizan Zenrinji school as nearby Komyoji and Jikoji. The grounds are not large, but the temple has supported local faith for a long time. Its stone steps, main hall and layout preserve the typical form of an Onomichi temple.

Right next to Hodoji is Kibitsuhiko Shrine (commonly called Ichinomiya Shrine). A temple and shrine standing side by side is a trace of Japan's historic blending of Shinto and Buddhism, and here you can feel how Onomichi's faiths overlap.

Kibitsuhiko Shrine is a local shrine, and you can walk to it from Hodoji on an almost level path. Stopping there after Hodoji lets you visit both a temple and a shrine in one go.

This temple-next-to-shrine scene is one of the unusual spots on the Temple Walk.

Hodoji is in the upper part of the Temple Walk, near Senkoji. From the north exit of JR Onomichi Station, it is about 12–15 minutes on foot up steps and slopes. Climbing past Jikoji and Komyoji, you reach Hodoji next.

Since you reach it with Senkoji not far ahead, it is worth taking time to look around the grounds if you have the energy. Add the maneki-neko workshop and Kibitsuhiko Shrine, and you will find small discoveries in the quiet that only this place offers. See the Onomichi guide for more.

The grounds are open at all times, and there is generally no entry fee (buying from the workshop is optional). The route is all slopes and steps, so wear comfortable shoes.